tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22733362505493992782024-03-14T04:05:14.785-05:00Latin American AdventureThe Latin American Adventure is really a continuation of the Alaskan Adventure of 2012. The stated goal is to ride a motorbike from Prudhoe Bay, AK to Ushuaia, Argentina. That said, this journey is about experiencing the diverse cultures of Latin America, learning to communicate in Spanish, and living one-day-at-a-time. I am putting no time limits on this adventure. The real goal is to better understand the Universe and my place within it.
More will be revealed....Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.comBlogger67125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-21765462114213198092015-01-10T08:54:00.002-06:002015-01-10T08:54:56.296-06:00Day 626 Saturday January 10, 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since my last report I have completed my mission by reaching Ushuaia, Argentina on December 23, 2014. During the riding south through the Argentinian Patagonia the wind was relentless, often blowing at 100 k/h (60-70 mph) all day. When I reached Ushuaia I made one loop through the city and found the streets clogged with tourist for the Christmas Holiday. I took a photo of the bike at the city entrance and returned to Rio Grande before heading north the next morning...I was ready to get out of Patagonia and the relentless wind. <br />
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July 2, 2012.<br />
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December 23, 2014.<br />
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Guanacos in the wild.<br />
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Wild camping on a lake in Argentina.<br />
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Flamingos feeding...it is too windy to fly today.<br />
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After leaving Rio Grande and getting back on the mainland, Christmas was spent in the city of Rio Gallegos. There was pretty much nothing going on there. I was back on the road on the 26th and determined to get north of this wind. On December 29th I left Puerto Madryn and was headed to Santa Rosa where I was going to meet up with two guys from there I had met in Bolivia several months back. After making a bad route choice with lots of sand and gravel roads that day at 7:00pm I was hours short of Santa Rosa. I consulted the GPS and the nearest hotel was in Lamarque, so I headed for there. While stopped at a store to buy some supplies in Lamarque a pickup truck pulls up to the bike and starts taking pictures. This is where I get to meet Rosa and Juan <a aria-haspopup="true" aria-owns="js_1o" class="profileLink" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/user.php?id=100007652028635" href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100007652028635" id="js_1n" style="background-color: white; color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302948px; line-height: 17.5636348724365px; text-decoration: none;">Pierroni</a>. They had seen the bike when it passed their home and followed to get a better look. We talked for about five minutes, Juan in Spanish and me in English. I ended up following Rosa and Juan back to their home where I stayed for two nights. There has not been a dull moment since arriving in here.<br />
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Canal swimming.<br />
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Juan and Tony.<br />
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Rosa and Juan's home is undergoing remodeling.<br />
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Touring an export fruit plant.<br />
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One of many New Years Eve BBQs I attended.<br />
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Spent New Years Eve at the home of Rosa's parents along with brothers, sisters and cousins and their families. Feliz Año Amigos!<br />
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Juan and Rosa.<br />
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Toured a family run winery in Villa Regina.</div>
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Alfalfa is a major crop here.<br />
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All this agriculture is due to the irrigation canals with water from the Rio Negro. <br />
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Evening spent headlighting rabbits.<br />
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I attended an hombre BBQ a couple of nights ago.<br />
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I have been Lamarque for nearly two weeks and will ride to Santa Rosa on Monday or Tuesday to meet up with friends I met in Bolivia a couple of months ago. This afternoon we will go on a guanaco hunt. More will be revealed...</div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-75801665561459680762014-12-11T12:03:00.003-06:002014-12-11T12:03:52.569-06:00Day 596, Thursday December 11, 2014 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After leaving the Elqui Valley I rode south to Santiago through the center of the country on mostly dirt and gravel roads with many tunnels.<br />
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This was an interesting tunnel...lots of sand and mud.<br />
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Mainly I came to Santiago for new tires for the bike. I stayed two nights and left for Valparaiso.<br />
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When I arrived and was checking in a hotel in Valparaiso I was approached by an American woman who saw the bike with an Alabama plate and low and behold it was Michelle Lamphere (South Dakota) and her travelmate Brian Clarke (England). I had been following their ADVenture for over a year. What a pleasure to finally meet them.<br />
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Two photos from my hotel.<br />
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That evening I met Michelle and Brian for dinner and we were joined by Simone and Michael Poysden, two overlanders from Switzerland. Great meal and time I really enjoyed the evening. That is Michelle and Brian on the right.<br />
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My next stop was the Lakes Region of southern Chile. Many volcanoes and thermal spas. It is quite beautiful and the roads were paved...always a plus.<br />
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After moving south through the lakes region I arrived in Puerto Montt which is the end of the Pan American Highway in Chile. I stayed one night in Puerto Montt and went south to the island of Chiloé. On the ferry crossing to the island I reunited with a German couple that I had met in Santiago. They are spending six months touring South America by motorbike. Last year they spent six months in North America on their bikes.<br />
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Photos on Chiloé.</div>
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On Chiloé I had ridden south to Castro, about midway of the island and was stopped at a restaurant for a bite. While in the restaurant a man came in looking for the rider of the moto. His name<br />
is Quentin Silvand. Quentin is from France and has lived in London for 14 years. He is also traveling<br />
solo on a moto. We decided to ride together and see if our styles were compatible. It has been eight months since riding with someone else and heading into the frontier of South America it would be better to have a mate and Quentin was of the same mind. We departed Castro the next morning and returned to Puerto Montt and headed south on an inland route.<br />
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Here we are stopped visiting with a French couple touring Chile on bicycles.<br />
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Here we are with two Chileno Cyclist. We met these guys three times. They are really cool.<br />
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Our first night we did a bit of couch surfing and stayed with these guys in Haluaihué. We had a traditional Chilean BBQ.<br />
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One of five ferry crossings I have made in the past few days.<br />
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A couple of Californians we met on the road to Futeleufú. They began in Ushuaia over a month ago.<br />
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This days ride was like riding through a postcard all day.<br />
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We have arrived in Futeleufú.<br />
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At the moment Quentin and I plan to leave Futeleufú day after tomorrow and enter Argentina and proceed south. We are only about 10 miles from the border. All of our plans are subject to change. More will be revealed...</div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-86506001064061057352014-11-20T06:53:00.000-06:002014-11-20T09:06:46.294-06:00Day 574 Wednesday November 19,2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After departing Pisagua the ADV's next stop is Iquique. Iquique is a port city and commune in northern Chile, capital of both the Iquique Province and Tarapacá Region. It lies on the Pacific coast, west of the Pampa del Tamarugal which is part of Atacama Desert. It had a population of 180,601 according to the 2012 census. The city developed during the heyday of the saltpeter mining in Atacama Desert in the 19th century. Originally a Peruvian city with a large Chilean population it was ceded to Chile as result of War of the Pacific (1879–1883). Today it is one of only two free ports of Chile.<br />
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After a couple of days there I headed into the Atacama desert for Pica. Pica is a Chilean town and commune in Tamarugal Province, Tarapacá Region. Situated in the inland of the Atacama Desert on an oasis, Pica is famous for its small and unusually acidic lemons. The town has a communal thermal spring with a surface temperature of 40 °C, which makes it a popular bath place in the middle of the desert.<br />
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My next stop was Antofagasta. Antofagasta is a port city in northern Chile, about 1,100 kilometers (700 mi) north of Santiago. It is the capital of Antofagasta Province and Antofagasta Region. According to the 2012 census, the city has a population of 345,420.<br />
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Formerly part of Bolivia, Antofagasta was captured by Chile in the War of the Pacific (1879-83), and the transfer of sovereignty was finalized in the 1904 Treaty of Peace and Friendship between the two countries.<br />
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The city of Antofagasta is closely linked to mining activity, being a major mining area of the country. The last decade has been a steady growth in the areas of construction, retail, hotel accommodations, population growth, and remarkable skyline development. Antofagasta has the highest GDP per capita of Chile, $37,000 USD per year.<br />
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About 100km northeast of Antofagasta I visited Chacabuco. Chacabuco is one of the many abandoned nitrate or "saltpeter" towns in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile. Unlike most of the other ghost towns in the Atacama Desert, Chacabuco became a concentration camp during the Pinochet regime in 1973. To this day, it remains surrounded by approximately 98 lost land mines, left by the Chilean military when Chacabuco was used as a prison camp. While wandering around this ghost town for a couple of hours I was unaware of these lost land mines...all is well that ends well.<br />
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Founded in 1924 by the Lautaro Nitrate Company Ltd., Chacabuco soon fell into ruin as the nitrate mining boom in Chile came to an abrupt halt at the end of the 1930s. Synthetic nitrate had been invented in Germany at the turn of the 20th century and by the 1930s and 40s had severely crippled northern Chile's nitrate industry. What had accounted for virtually 50% of Chile's Gross National Product fell to almost zero within a few decades. A total of 170 nitrate towns were shut down throughout Chile's Atacama Desert, only one remains open today, María Elena, about 95 kilometers north of Chacabuco. Chacabuco shut its doors in 1938. As a town, it had only survived 14 years.<br />
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In 1971, president Salvador Allende declared Chacabuco a Historic Monument of Chile, at which point restoration began. But in 1973, after the military coup, Pinochet turned it into a concentration camp until the end of 1974. As a concentration camp, it held up to 1,800 prisoners many of whom were doctors, lawyers, artists, writers, professors and workers from all over Chile.<br />
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I am now in Pisco Elqui at the Cabañas El Tesoro de Elqui. This hotel is owned and operated by a German couple, Ina and Kluse, whom I met in Ecuador. Pisco Elqui is a Chilean village in the Elqui Valley, 107 km east from La Serena, at about 1,300 metres above sea level. This was the area where pisco was distilled in the early history of Chile. This area and the Elqui Valley in particular is a grape growing region with several pisco distilleries and local vineyards. This valley also has several international observatories. The valley has one of the clearest night skies of anywhere in the world. I toured a small observatory here last evening. <br />
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Photos taken in Iquique.<br />
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These photos are if Pica.<br />
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The thermal spring at Pica.</div>
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Photos of the ghost town of Chacabuco.<br />
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The plaza.<br />
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The teator.<br />
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A desert fox poses for me.<br />
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Photos taken in the Elqui Valley.<br />
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Vineyards in the Elqui valley.<br />
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Some photos of the incredible colors of the Atacama.<br />
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The Mano de Desierto is a large-scale sculpture of a hand located in the Atacama Desert in Chile, 75 km to the south of the city of Antofagasta, on the Panamerican Highway.<br />
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The sculpture was constructed by the Chilean sculptor Mario Irarrázabal at an altitude of 1,100 meters above sea level. Irarrázabal used the human figure to express emotions like injustice, loneliness, sorrow and torture. Its exaggerated size is said to emphasize human vulnerability and helplessness. The work has a base of iron and concrete, and stands 11 metres (36 ft) tall. Funded by Corporación Pro Antofagasta, a local booster organization, the sculpture was inaugurated on March 28, 1992. It has since become a point of interest for tourists traveling Route 5, which forms part of the Pan-American Highway.<br />
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It is a right-of-passage for travelers to have their photo taken here.<br />
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More will be revealed...</div>
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-64605852857406406172014-11-09T09:18:00.001-06:002014-11-09T09:22:35.236-06:00Day 564 Sunday November 9, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
My last post ended in Lima when I had shipped the bike from Arequipa for repairs. I stayed in Lima for another two weeks departing Sunday October 12 and riding to Nasca for one night then on to Arequipa for a week. From Arequipa I rode to Puno, Peru on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Titicaca">Lake Titicaca</a>. Titicaca is a lake in the Andes on the border of Peru and Bolivia. By volume of water, it is the largest lake in South America. While in Puno I inadvertently spilled water onto the keyboard of my laptop and fried it. I left Puno and entered Bolivia and went to La Paz to get a replacement computer, which I did. When I departed La Paz I returned to Lake Titicaca in Bolivia and stayed in Copacabana. After five days in Copacabana I reentered Peru and headed for northern Chile. It was a two day ride to Arica, Chile. I stayed three days in Arica where I reunited with Glen Short. Glen is from Australia and we first met in Colombia in April, then we hooked up in Ecuador and Peru before meeting again in Chile. I am now in Pisauga, Chile. Pisauga is a small fishing village on the Pacific coast and this area is a very active seismically. In April of this year the area experienced an 8.2 earthquake. I am in the only hotel in Pisauga with five seismologist, three from France and two Chileans. I plan to depart tomorrow morning and ride to Iquique, about a four hour ride. This northern area of Chile has much interesting history resulting from "The War of the Pacific" (1879-1882), During this war Chile defeated Bolivia and Peru. As a result Chile almost doubled in size, Bolivia was landlocked and Peru lost much of it's southern region.<br />
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The name Pisagua comes from the Spanish words "pis" and "agua", roughly translating into "pisswater". Possibly derived from bad-tasting water contaminated with nitric acid.<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pisagua,_Chile">Pisagua</a> has often been used as a concentration camp for political prisoners. This happened during the rule of Carlos Ibáñez del Campo (for male homosexuals), as well as that of Gabriel González Videla (for communists, anarchists and revolutionaries) and more recently, during Augusto Pinochet's dictatorship (for left-wing militants). Many bodies have been found under the waters of the port and several graves have been discovered in Pisagua since the end of Pinochet's military regime. Pisagua is geographically isolated, with the ocean on one side and a big desert on the other.<br />
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Four Brazilians I met between Arequipa and Puno. <br />
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From my hotel balcony in Arequipa.<br />
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From my hotel balcony in Copacabana.<br />
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Photos from the ride from Copacabana, Bolivia to Arica, Chile.<br />
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Here I am buying gasoline and a man drew a map in the dirt to show me the best route.<br />
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Impending dust storm ahead. I have been in worse.<br />
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A rail crossing in southern Peru. I stopped to photograph the monuments to the poor souls who tried to cross at the wrong time.<br />
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Photos in and around Arica, Chile.<br />
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Entering Chile.<br />
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A church in Arica designed by Gustave Eiffel, one of three buildings in Arica designed by Eiffel.<br />
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The main plaza.<br />
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Photos from the lookout above the port.<br />
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Photos from the ride from Arica to Pisauga.<br />
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Yesterday I walked 45 minutes from Pisuga to where there were many sea lions. I spent two hours just relaxing and watching these seals.<br />
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This big guy made two bounds toward me showing me his teeth, alerting me that I was close enough...I took his word for it.<br />
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A few shots of Pisauga.<br />
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Tomorrow I plan to ride to Iquique.</div>
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-43055698246603506002014-10-03T18:38:00.002-05:002014-10-03T18:38:49.391-05:00Day 527 Friday October 3, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The adventure has departed Cusco and the next stop was Chivay to visit the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colca_Canyon">Colca Canyon</a> and to see the Andean Condor. Colca Canyon is a canyon of the Colca River in southern Peru, located about 100 miles (160 kilometers) northwest of Arequipa. It is Peru's third most-visited tourist destination with about 120,000 visitors annually. With a depth of 13,650 ft (4,160 m), it is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States. The canyon is home to the Andean Condor, a species that has been the focus of worldwide conservation efforts. The condors can be seen at close range as they fly past the canyon walls, and are a popular attraction. 'Cruz del Condor' is a popular tourist stop to view the condors. At this point the canyon floor is 3,960 feet (1,200 m) below the rim of the canyon.<br />
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The ride from Cusco to Chivay was over eight hours and for the most part was on unsealed roads. I was above 16,000 ft. (4800 m) several times and was in and out of sleet and light snow for several hours. The temperature did not drop below 45f (7c) and of course the ice was not sticking to the road. My first evening in Chivay there were thunderstorms and it was still raining when I fell asleep. The next morning the surrounding mountains were covered with fresh snow. It was quite a site.<br />
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Some photos of the ride from Cusco to Chivay.<br />
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This is where I stopped to put on some warmer gear.<br />
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The next morning I went exploring for the condor. I looked high and low.<br />
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An interesting hawk...but no condor.<br />
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Later that afternoon I found where to see the allusive condor and I would return in the morning.<br />
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The next morning I was right where I was supposed to be at 8am and moments later the show began. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andean_condor">Andean condor</a> is a South American bird in the New World vulture family Cathartidae and is the only member of the genus Vultur. Found in the Andes mountains and adjacent Pacific coasts of western South America, the Andean condor has a wingspan of up to 3.2 m/10.5 ft.<br />
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After seeing the Andean Condor on Wednesday I left Chivay and rode to Arequipa where I planned to stay for a few days to a week. When I got into the central district of Arequipa and began looking for a hotel the shifter on the motorbike broke again. I immediately called Pipe at Triumph Peru in Lima and within a few minutes decided to ship the bike back to Lima for repairs. Pipe arranged for a shipping company to bring the bike to Lima and I would catch the bus to Lima. In less than three hours the bike was at the freight depot and I was on the 3:30 bus to Lima. It was a 16 hour bus ride...we watched three Hollywood movies (no English sub titles), I sat on the upper level in seat 01 and we were served two meals dinner and breakfast. I slept well and the ride did not seem that long. The trip was 1050 km, over 600 miles. I was at the freight depot in Lima at 2pm this afternoon to claim the bike. Pipe had arranged for a tow truck to take me and the moto to the Triumph repair shop. Everything came off without a hitch.<br />
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Packing up the bike in Arequipa.</div>
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Picking it up in Lima.<br />
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More will be revealed...</div>
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-20334069402561354742014-09-25T17:26:00.001-05:002014-09-26T10:11:36.842-05:00Day 519 Thursday September 25, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since departing Lima the Adventure has traveled and visited much. The first stop was Paracas. I stayed at a nice little beach town there. I took a boat tour of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Islas_Ballestas">Ballestas Islands</a> a short distance off the coast, these islands are an important sanctuary for marine fauna like the guanay guano bird, the blue-footed booby and the tendril. Other notable species include Humboldt Penguins and two varieties of seals (fur seals and sea lions), amongst other mammals.<br />
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Scallop Fisherman<br />
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After leaving Paracas I rode to Nazca where I took an airplane tour of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazca_Lines">Nazca Lines</a>. The Nazca Lines are a series of ancient geoglyphs located in the Nazca Desert in southern Peru. They were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The high, arid plateau stretches more than 80 km (50 mi) between the towns of Nazca and Palpa on the Pampas de Jumana about 400 km south of Lima. Although some local geoglyphs resemble Paracas motifs, scholars believe the Nazca Lines were created by the Nazca culture between 400 and 650 AD. The hundreds of individual figures range in complexity from simple lines to stylized hummingbirds, spiders, monkeys, fish, sharks, killer whales, and lizards.<br />
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The Hummingbird<br />
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Photo of Nazca.<br />
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From Nazca I rode two days to Cusco. During this ride I crossed some high passes in the Andes Mountains and was between 4000-4600 meters (13,000-15,000 feet) for about four hours. I have never been at that altitude for that length of time and both the bike and I handled it with no problem. </div>
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Two French cyclist I met between Nazca and Cusco.<br />
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A heard of LLama I met between Nazca and Cusco.<br />
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I arrived in Cusco on Sunday afternoon of the 21st and found a hotel within an hour. I spent Monday acclimating to the altitude of Cusco (3600m-12,00ft) and getting my bearings around the inner city. By mid-afternoon I had gotten used to walking up and down the city and was feeling much better.<br />
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On Tuesday I took a tour of the Sacred Valley. The tour was 12 hours and was very informative and interesting. Some photos of that tour.<br />
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These were Incan tombs that were robbed shortly after the Spanish conquest.<br />
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Here is a photo of our tour guide of the Sacred Valley, Valmier.<br />
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Yesterday I toured <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_495930984"></span>Machu Picchu<span id="goog_495930985"></span></a>. I departed Cusco at 4am and returned at 10:30pm...it was a full day.<br />
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Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca site located 2,430 meteres (7,970 ft) above sea level. It is situated on a mountain ridge above the Sacred Valley which is 80 kilometres (50 mi) northwest of Cusco and through which the Urubamba River flows. Most archaeologists believe that Machu Picchu was built as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti (1438–1472). Often mistakenly referred to as the "Lost City of the Incas", it is perhaps the most familiar icon of Inca civilization.<br />
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The Incas built the estate around 1450, but abandoned it a century later at the time of the Spanish Conquest. Although known locally, it was unknown to the outside world before being brought to international attention in 1911 by the American historian Hiram Bingham. Since then, Machu Picchu has become an important tourist attraction. Most of the outlying buildings have been reconstructed in order to give tourists a better idea of what the structures originally looked like. By 1976, thirty percent of Machu Picchu had been restored. The restoration work continues to this day.<br />
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I saw my first chiuchila.<br />
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This stone is a compass.<br />
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These two photos are of the sundial at Machu Picchu. It is also a compass that shows magnetic north and true north.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-83858465670790668262014-09-15T19:54:00.000-05:002014-09-15T19:54:16.584-05:00Day 509 September 9, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have been in Lima for over two weeks and am planning to depart in the morning. As I stated in my last post the Triumph had developed a problem in the gearbox. While in Huanchaco, Peru I emailed the Triumph dealership in Lima and my email was answered by Felipe Maranzana the sales manager. Felipe asked if I could ride the bike to Lima and if not he would make the arrangements to have the bike brought to Lima. I rode the bike without any problem. He also gave me his phone number and said if I had any problem to call him. I arrived in Lima on Saturday August 30 and got the bike to the service department on the 1st of September. At the service department I met Andres Cabezas the service manager. I will say now that Lima has the largest percentage of English speakers that I have encountered in Latin America. Both Felipe and Andres speak excellent English, but they are not exceptions. Back to the bike...The service department is first class, big, clean and with trained technicians. They have a large stock of parts and had the parts to fix my bike on site. They also service KTM bikes there. Andres would send me an email every day informing me of the progress on the bike with pictures of the work being done and any problems that they found. I will say that I have never had this kind of personal service from a dealership before.<br />
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Felipe and I hit it off and he went out of his was to show me around Lima and arranged for his son Manuel to act as my personal guide of the city for two days. My first weekend in Lima Felipe took me to a motocross race and this last Sunday we rode our bikes south of Lima so I could check that everything about the bike was okay. I am also invited to go on a ride with 30 to 50 other riders for three days through some scenic part of Peru later this month. I will see how my schedule works out, but I would like to go.<br />
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I have enjoyed Lima very much. My hotel is in the Miraflores district of the city which is very nice. The food in Lima is exquisite and the city has many fine restaurants. Lima has the best food of any city I have visited in Latin America. The traditional Peruvian food is excellent. There is a sizable population of both Chinese and Japanese here with a healthy sprinkling of Italian and German immigrants and all their influence in fine dining are evident.<br />
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These are photos of the moto sent to me by Andres showing the problem with the shifter on the bike.<br />
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A few photos from around my hotel in Lima.<br />
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These are photos of Larcomar a nice little mall built into the cliff a short walk from the hotel.<br />
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Photos from around the central district of Lima.<br />
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Photos from our afternoon at the motocross races.<br />
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On the right is my friend Felipe with one of his old friends who is still racing.<br />
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Luis, Felipe and I on our Sunday outing.</div>
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I will leave Lima in the morning and head for Cusco. It is two long days ride to Cusco from Lima so I will likely take four or five days. There will be plenty to see along the way. More will be revealed...</div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-21068490845070535482014-08-27T18:18:00.000-05:002014-08-27T18:18:29.462-05:00Day 490 Wednesday August 27, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The adventure is now Huanchaco, Peru. Last Thursday I left Vilcabamba and rode to Macara where I departed Ecuador and entered Peru. The border between Ecuador and Peru at Macara is very laid back, the border officials on both sides are friendly and it took just over a hour at the border and I was riding again. Peru, west of the Andes, is all desert...actually much of the western coast of the Americas, from California to Chile, is desert. The roads that I have ridden on so far have been quite good and many fuel stations here offer four choices of octane levels of gasoline, from 87 to 98. It is quite a thrill riding a 100 horsepower bike at sea level with 98 octane fuel. The Triumph has developed the first problem it has had in 65,000km. It appears a spring in the gearbox has failed and the shifter will not return to the neutral or stand-by position. I have ridden about 300km since the problem started...it takes a two step method to downshift...I must lift the shifter to the stand-by position then down to the next lower gear while upshifting is much less a hassle as gravity returns the shifter to the proper position. I have rigged a bungey from the frame to the shifter and I hope this will make riding easier. I have contacted the Triumph dealer in Lima and they have told me bring it in...it should be no problem to repair and I will take it there next week for service.<br />
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These are photos of a visit to the museum and archeological site of the Moche culture near Trujillo. The Moche civilization flourished in northern Peru with its capital near present-day Moche and Trujillo, from about 100 AD to 800 AD, during the Regional Development Epoch. While this issue is the subject of some debate, many scholars contend that the Moche were not politically organized as a monolithic empire or state. Rather, they were likely a group of autonomous polities that shared a common elite culture, as seen in the rich iconography and monumental architecture that survive today.<br />
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There are several theories as to what caused the demise of the Moche political structure. Some scholars have emphasized the role of environmental change. Studies of ice cores drilled from glaciers in the Andes reveal climatic events between 536 to 594 AD, possibly a super El Niño, that resulted in 30 years of intense rain and flooding followed by 30 years of drought, part of the aftermath of the climate changes of 535–536. These weather events could have disrupted the Moche way of life and shattered their faith in their religion, which had promised stable weather through sacrifices.<br />
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For security reasons photos were not allowed in the Museo Huacas De <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moche_culture#Archaeological_discoveries">Moche</a> where many of the treasures from the site are on display. The Peruvian government did not gain control of this site until 1991. Before then the site had been looted for many years.<br />
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This is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruvian_Hairless_Dog">Peruvian Hairless Dog</a> which is a breed with its origins in Peruvian pre-Inca cultures. In Peru the dogs are kept at national site like this one to help maintain the breed and for display.<br />
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These are mud bricks each with different markings. Probably groups were required to furnish bricks for construction of the pyramids and temples and each group had it's own marking system. <br />
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This is one of the tomes that have been found in the small pyramid that was discovered in the past few years. The small pyramid had seven levels...one built on top of the other. The first two levels have worn away due to erosion and looting.</div>
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This is Andres from San Paulo, Brazil. He is riding his BMW R1200GS from Brazil to Los Angeles, California.We met in northern Peru and chatted for 15 minutes before heading of separate ways.<br />
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These are photos taken in and around Huanchaco where I am staying.<br />
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These are <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caballitos_de_totora">caballitos de totora</a> which are reed watercrafts used by Peruvian fishermen for the past 3,000 years. Named for the way they are ridden, straddled ('little reed horses' in English), fishermen use them to transport their nets and collect fish in their inner cavity. The name is not the original name as horses were not introduced to South American until after the Spanish arrived in the 15th Century. They are made from the same reed, Scirpus californicus, used by the Uros in the Lake Titicaca region.<br />
Fishermen in the port town of Huanchaco famously, but in many other locations practically, still use these vessels to this day, riding the waves back into shore, and suggesting some of the first forms of wave riding. There is currently a minor debate in the surfing world as to whether or not this constitutes the first form of surfing.<br />
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A fisherman baiting crab baskets.<br />
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I am thinking of leaving Huanchaco on Friday and heading for Lima. I am planning to enter Lima on Sunday...usually less traffic than during the week. More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-20620794177887023812014-08-17T14:57:00.001-05:002014-08-17T14:57:32.662-05:00Johnny Hubbard Ecuador<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/aybkoRJ1nsc" width="480"></iframe>Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-51030684296846196232014-08-16T17:10:00.001-05:002014-08-17T08:48:20.265-05:00Day 479 Saturday August 16, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since my last post I have left Banos and reentered the Amazona Region of Ecuador. I went through P<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puyo,_Pastaza">uyo</a> and on to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macas_(city)">Macas</a> where I spent one night. From Macaas I traveled to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuenca,_Ecuador">Cuenca</a> in one day. The roads in the jungle are quite good. Which is not surprising to me, since I think Ecuador has the best roads overall of all Latin American countries I have visited. I stayed in Cuenca for three weeks. The city is beautiful, safe and has the feel of a town much smaller than 500,000 inhabitants. There are many expats in Cuenca including 3000 to 5000 Americans at anytime of the year. I made contact with some Americans the first morning and was invited to a regular Wednesday morning breakfast which I attended while there. I had contacts from people that I met in Salinas so I was never bored there. The city has more museums, for a town that size, than any I have visited and I went to many of them. My only complaint with Cuenca is the weather. It is often cold, windy and raining. It is not unusual to not see the sun for days. Many of the American expats there are from the Northwest...so the weather is like being at home for them.<br />
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I reunited with Susan and Scott Nelson in Cuenca and yesterday we rode from there to Vilcabamba where I plan to stay one week before heading into Peru.<br />
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Some photos from my room on the 5th floor of Hotel Italia in Cuenca.<br />
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These photos are of Pre-Columbian ruins within the city of Cuenca.<br />
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Glen Short, from Australia, and I reunited in Cuenca. I first met Glen in Villa de Leyva, Colombia. Sorry Glen...this the only pic I have of you in Cuenca.</div>
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One and a half hours ride north of Cuenca is Ingapirca the largest known Incan ruins in Ecuador.</div>
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Some photos taken around Cuenca<br />
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This Mark Hansen from Seattle, Washington. Mark is the first person I met when I arrived in Cuenca. Mark had Susan, Scott and I for dinner one evening.<br />
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Some photos after leaving Marks while walking back to our hotels.<br />
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This the Iglesia de Todos Santos.<br />
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My last morning in Cuenca I toured the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_hat">Panama Hat</a> and Bag Factory. The Panama Hat is and always has been a product of Ecuador. The hats were shipped by the thousands to Panama during the building of the Panama Canal. When then President Teddy Roosevelt visited the canal he wore the hat and the American press core named it the Panama Hat and it has stuck since.<br />
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Susan, Scott and I on our ride from Cuenca to Vilcabamba.<br />
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A few shots of my hotel in Vilcabamba.<br />
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Some Photos from the balcony at Susan and Scotts place.<br />
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I plan to leave Vilcabamba and enter Peru in five or six days. I will say now that I have enjoyed Ecuador very much. It is a very beautiful country filled with wonderful people. I hope to return one day. More will be revealed.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-3487101606046385872014-07-26T14:00:00.001-05:002014-07-26T14:00:25.365-05:00Day 458 Saturday July 26, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since my last post I have spent five days in the Ecuadorian Amazon. I stayed at a foundation run by Umberto from New York. While there I visited the local village of Sacha Wasi. From the main road Sacha Wasi is a half a mile walk crossing a river and several smaller water crossings. There was a group of six people including me that started out walking to the village, but the water crossings turned the others back and I proceeded alone with our guide. I was treated like a celebrity upon reaching Sacha Wasi and spent several hours there. <br />
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The kitchen.<br />
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My first blow gun lesson.<br />
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Another excursion to a waterfall in the jungle at Hola Vida.<br />
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Sunset in the jungle. It rains three to six times a day.<br />
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This is where I stayed while in the jungle of Ecuador.<br />
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These are leafcutter ants. This presession went on from morning to night every day. They are cutting a lemon tree. From the lemon tree to where the ants enter the jungle is about 100 yards and in places they have worn a path that is one inch deep.<br />
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I plan to leave Banos in the morning and reenter the Amazon on my way to Cuenca.</div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-66786667093394169372014-07-19T13:23:00.001-05:002014-07-19T13:54:30.829-05:00Day 451 Saturday July 18, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since my last post I spent three weeks in Salinas, Ecuador. Salinas is called "Little Miami" by many of the expats there. There are about 300 americans living there and it is a diverse community. I made many friends in Salinas and had a very good time. It is a resort city for Ecuadorians from Guayaquil (the second largest city in Ecuador) which is about a two hour drive.<br />
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Photos from in and around Salinas.<br />
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I am now in Banos, Ecuador. I am staying at the Huillacuna (Hostal, Cafe, Casa, Arte). Some photos of the lobby at the Huillacuna.<br />
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Banos is famous for it's thermal baths. Photos from around Banos.<br />
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Tomorrow morning I will go to Puyo in the Amazon basin. I will leave the bike and most of my gear here at the Huillacuna and take a backpack. I met a couple from New York that have invited me to stay with them in Puyo and I plan to do an ayahuasca retreat while in the Amazon. More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-82750212439983331592014-06-21T08:03:00.002-05:002014-06-21T13:11:29.114-05:00Day 423 Saturday June 21, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have been in Ecuador for nearly three weeks. I left Colombia after 87 days there on June 1st and entered Ecuador. The border crossing was quick, simple and no Spanish no problem. My first night in Ecuador I stayed in Ibarra. When I awoke the next morning I decided that it was time for the beach. I rode to San Lorenzo on the northwest coast. From San Lorenzo I continued to Esmeraldas, but the city did not suit me so I rode on to Playa del Sua and stayed for two nights there. When I left Sua I rode to Ayampe where I have been since. My friends Susan and Scott Nelson, from Oregon, had been here for a month and we hooked up again. I met Susan and Scott in Panama, they were among the six motorcyclist that sailed on the Stahlrette from Panama to Cartagena. They came to San Juan del Cesar, Colombia and checked on me when I had injured my leg. I plan to leave Ayampe in a few days and ride to Salinas where there is a sizable US expat community. I have read in several expat publications that Ecuador is the most popular destination for US expats. It is not difficult for US citizens to get a resident visa here.<br />
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These photos are from Playa del Sua. I pulled into Sua made a loop through town and said this will do fine.<br />
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Alberto invited me down to chat while he repaired his nets.<br />
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My first night in Sua...David, with the hollywoods on, approached me after I had left Albert. I believe that I was the only traveler in town and there was never a dull moment for the next few hours. They teaching me Spanish and me teaching them Ingles or something like that.<br />
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These are photos taken in Ayampe where I have been for over two weeks.<br />
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Ayampe is a surfing town, there are no fishing boats working out of here. The tide is very high...almost no beach.<br />
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This past Monday Susan, Scott and I went whale watching out of Puerto Lopez. On the way out of the harbor we were taken past these cliffs where blue-footed boobys were hanging out before heading to the Galapagos Islands where they nest.<br />
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After leaving the blue-footed boobys the boat left the harbor and we went looking for whales. We were always in sight of land and the captain told us that we would not go more than 20 nautical miles out to sea. Within 30 minutes we had spotted our first whale. In total we saw about 10 whales in the next 2 hours. The whales were not staying at the surface for more than a few minutes and by the time we arrived arrived at their location they would submerge. After almost 2 hours we had some nice photos of whales but nothing spectacular. Around 5:00pm the boat took us to this feeding frenzy where hundreds of birds and many dolphins were feeding on a school of fish or maybe squid. I have witnessed these feeding frenzies many times from the beach in Ayampe, but never up close. <br />
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After leaving the frenzy we spotted this whale. For the next 15 minutes the whale put on a display for us. The crew of the boat were as excited as we were to find the whale.<br />
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At 5:30 the whale bid us goodbye and everyone was pleased that our whale watching trip was a total success. It was a very good afternoon.<br />
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Susan and Scott left Ayampe the next morning. I feel sure that our paths will cross again soon.<br />
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More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-46588851553824597002014-06-09T12:13:00.000-05:002014-06-09T12:13:33.723-05:00Day 411 Monday June 9, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The adventure is now in Ayampe, Ecuador. Ayampe is about two hours south of Manta on the Pacific coast. I entered Ecuador on Sunday May 1st and Colombia and Ecuador were the simplest borders I have crossed. Leaving Colombia and entering Ecuador took one and a half hours total. No Spanish...no problem. I have been here for four days and I do not know when I will leave. When I do leave I plan to go to Salinas which is a couple of hours further south.<br />
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Since my last blog post I have been to Medellin, Arminia, Coli, Popayan, Pasto and Ipiales in Colombia. Colombia was my favorite country of my travels so far. I fell in love with the country and it's people. The country is simply beautiful. The Colombian people are the friendliest, kindest and loveliest people I have encountered. <br />
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This is Lieras Park in El Poblado area of Medellin. While in Medellin I stayed in a room above the Shamrock Irish Pub in El Poblado. El poblado is the most fashionable part of town. There are many expats there and I met many new friends.<br />
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The metro in Medellin.<br />
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This is central Medellin.<br />
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<span style="color: #252525; font-family: sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 14.933332443237305px;">The Museum of Antioquia (Museo de Antioquia) is an art museum in Medellín. It houses a large collection of works by Medellín native Fernando Botero and Pedro Nel Gómez.</span></span></div>
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Just another photo op while stopped for lunch.<br />
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A new friend who passed me on his bike and flagged me down. Eduard is from Popayan and he wanted me to turn around and return to Popayan and stay at his house for a few days. Unfortunately I had a date in Pasto and had to pass. Eduard placed this decal on the bike and I have told him that I will take a photo of the decal in Terra del Fuego and send it to him.<br />
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In Pasto at the cultural museum there.<br />
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This lady is the curator at the museum and this picture depicts a scene from her farm outside Pasto where some local men unearthed a trove of artifacts. She contributed them to a another museum. The Colombian homes that I went into were all full of these treasures.<br />
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The plaza in Pasto.<br />
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The young woman pictured is Salome Solarte. Salome contacted me shortly after I had entered Colombia and offered to be my host and guide of the Pasto area if I would come to Pasto for a visit and I told her that I would.<br />
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The garden at Salome's home.<br />
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This photo is of Salome and David. They have a two year old daughter and are both lawyers in Pasto. They acted a my hosts while there.<br />
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The Gold Museum.<br />
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These are photos of Lake Cocha where I spent a day before leaving Pasto.<br />
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This was my guide while on the island in Lake Cocha. Maria has elected to study english at her school and we had a wonderful time.<br />
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These photos were taken during my visit of Santuario de Las Lajas in Ipiales.<br />
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The Shrine of Our Lady of Las Lajas is a Roman Catholic cathedral and basilica church dedicated to the worship and veneration of Our Lady of Las Lajas Ipiales. It is located in southern Colombia and has been a tourism and pilgrimage destination since the eighteenth century. The Spanish Franciscan Juan de Santa Gertrudis (1724–1799) mentions the sanctuary in Book III, Part 2, of his four volume chronicle of his 1756–62 journey in the south portion of the Kingdom of New Granada (titled "Wonders of Nature"). This is possibly the oldest reference to its existence.<br />
The current church was built between January 1, 1916 and August 20, 1949, with donations from local churchgoers. It rises 100 metres (330 ft) high from the bottom of the canyon and is connected to the opposite side of the canyon by a 50 metres (160 ft) tall bridge.<br />
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This concludes my Colombian adventure. After leaving the Sanctuary I entered Ecuador and have been here a little over a week. As always more will be revealed... </div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-16367200541186996632014-05-05T13:05:00.002-05:002014-05-07T12:17:58.439-05:00Day 376 Monday May 5, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The ADVenture is now in Medellin, Colombia. I left Villa de Leyva last Thursday morning and had no problems. The national strike that began on Monday seems to be having little effect on the country as a whole. I had intended to ride over half way from Leyva to Medellin when I departed and I was moving right along when I stopped at a highway junction in the town of Velez to check my GPS against Google Maps and Mapswithme. After a few moments I looked up from the maps I was studying and the bike and I were surrounded by curious people. I was caught by surprise, not expecting to be noticed. My first thought was to wave and proceed but instead decided I would visit for a moment. That moment turned into two hours of coffee and passing around my cell phone with Google Translate...it was Q&A time. I was given a tour of the town, a tour of a local candy factory, and a free taxi ride to eat lunch. After eating lunch it was back to coffee and Q&A and pretty soon it was 2:30 and thundering. One of the men that had been with me for the whole time got on his bike and led me to a nice hotel with secure parking for the bike. After checking in and making two trips hauling my gear to the third floor I was relaxing for a bit when there was a knock at the door. I slipped on my pants and opened the door. There was the desk clerk and two young men in the hall outside. One of the young men was in the uniform of the National Police and he did most of the talking. The other young man was from the office of the mayor. They were sent by their superiors to welcome me to Velez. I was given the phone numbers for the mayors office and the office of the commanding General of the National Police in Velez.<br />
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At about 6:00PM I was downstairs and a man struck up a conversation. We talked for a bit when he asked me if I had seen the Museum of Culture and I answered that I had not. He got on the phone and called the museum, flagged a taxi, and off we went. I was thoroughly entertained for the next two hours with music and costumes by the curator of the museum. I took photos until the battery in my point & shoot camera died. After leaving the museum the curator and I did a walkabout in town.<br />
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I was up early the next morning and departed for Medellin around 7:30. It would be a long days ride to reach Medellin. Most of the day the bike was in second, third, and fourth gears...spectacular mountain roads with beautiful scenery.<br />
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About 5:00PM I pulled off the freeway just north of the intercity to get my bearings and take a break. A man with his young daughter in the car pulled alongside me and asked if I needed anything. I told him where I was going and he informed me that it might be difficult to get to the Shamrock Irish Pub because there were demonstrations today that might delay my arrival. He suggested I follow him to a nice hotel for the evening. I was tired and took his advice. The gentleman led me to the Hotel Patron, which is at least a four star hotel, where I stayed for the night.<br />
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Sunday morning I contacted Albert Crutcher, my host in Medellin. We met at the Shamrock...went for coffee and Albert gave me a room above the pub where I plan to stay while in Medellin.<br />
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This is Carlos Julian Sanchez Quiroga and his family. Julian was one of the people that surrounded me when I first stopped in Velez. He took me for a tour of the town and arranged for me to tour the candy factory. He is also the brother-in-law of the museum curator.<br />
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The candy factory.<br />
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This is Eva, my guide for the tour.<br />
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This was taken in front of the Colombian National Police Academy in Velez.<br />
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This was on the taxi tour I was given. The man pictured with me is Carlos who led me to the hotel.<br />
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The Museum of Culture.<br />
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Cromos was the Latin edition Life Magazine.<br />
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Arriving in Velez.<br />
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The Shamrock is located in a posh part of Medellin. This is a beautiful city and I am through blogging...it's time to explore.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-19820028013980352852014-04-30T15:03:00.001-05:002014-05-07T12:21:24.802-05:00Day 371 Wednesday April 30, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since my last post a lot has happened. I am now in Villa de Leyva Colombia. Today is day 3 of a national strike by farmers, coffee workers, and transportation workers. Villa de Leyva is at the epicenter of this strike. Last year Colombia experienced a similar strike that lasted 12 days and turned quite ugly. During last years strike 5 people were killed and nearly 500 injured. Here in Leyva it is quiet, but many of the roads into town are barricaded. Foreigners are advised not to travel and hotels here are advised not to take foreigners. I am the only person still at this hostel. The road from Leyva to Chiquinquira was reportedly open this morning and the other 12 travelers that were staying here hired a van to take them there. I will monitor the situation today and may try to leave tomorrow. My plan is to travel to Medellin where I have arranged a place to stay at the Shamrock Irish Pub which is owned by fellow biker Albert Crutcher. Albert is a Scotsman from Crawford, TX who lives in Medellin (go figure?).<br />
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The leg and ankle are still improving and have given me little trouble for the past 10 days. I am walking from 2 to 5 miles a day with little discomfort and no swelling. This is the last time I will mention it...hopefully.<br />
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I am now the last biker that sailed from Panama to Cartagena on the Starhlratte still in Colombia. The rest are scattered through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Chile.<br />
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Here a few photos taken from the ride from San Gil to Villa de Leyva.<br />
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This is a photo of Glen Short and myself. Glen and I are FaceBook friends and we met up here in Leyva. Glen is from Australia and has lived abroad for 12 years mostly in South America and India. He is traveling on a 250cc Chinese bike. I really like Glen's style.</div>
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These shots are from The Fossil Museum outside Leyva. The El Fósil museum has an almost complete kronosaurus fossil on display, in the same place in which it was found in 1977.</div>
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The kronosaurus fossil is the main attraction here.<br />
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Saturday is market day here. The market here in Leyva is a traditional local market and was very interesting.<br />
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These photos are of the "Casa Terracotta" called the mud house which is a 40 minute walk from the plaza. The construction of the mud house began in 2007 and is still ongoing. It is the project of an architect from Bogota. No one has ever lived in the house.<br />
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These photos are from the Santo Ecce Homo Monastery about 25km from Leyva.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-81732068549673775702014-04-22T11:06:00.000-05:002014-05-07T12:23:12.442-05:00Day 363 Tuesday April 22, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have good news to report...the leg and ankle are much improved. A friend took me to see a local pharmacist. He examined the leg and ankle and prescribed an anti inflammatory. Within a few hours the leg was better. I was given 12 tablets and instructed to take one tablet every six hours, which I did. After three days of taking the drug my leg felt almost 100% ready for travel. Two days after I finished taking the drug the ankle had become stiff again, but it is much better than before and continues to progress.<br />
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I am planning to leave San Gil tomorrow and ride to Villa de Leva. It should take about 4 or 5 hours not counting photo opportunities along the way. I have very much enjoyed my time in San Gil, it has been an excellent place to recuperate and take a break. Hotel Abril, where I have stayed since arriving, was packed during Semana Santa. The Colombian people travel much within their country and Holy Week is a major holiday. San Gil was overflowing with tourists for the week. Many were from Bogota and Bucaramanga, escaping the city for a week.<br />
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Settling into a place like San Gil has brought on a kind of familiar complaisance. Not a bad thing, but not what the ADVenture is about...or, is that exactly what it is about? I seem to be in a pattern where this ADVenture is not one long trip, but many trips. After three weeks here I have fallen into a life of routines. Again, not a bad thing. Much of the past 60 years of this life has been lived in one routine or another and the ADVenture has proven to be a way to experience life outside the normal. This simi-vagabond lifestyle has a way of stripping away the illusions of security and control and leaving in it's place contentment. Maybe Buddha and Jesus were onto something...?<br />
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<b style="color: #660000; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16.363636016845703px;"><i>"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it."</i> ~ Helen Keller</b><br />
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A few photos from the past week.</div>
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-45022514669131444052014-04-13T16:50:00.000-05:002014-04-13T18:08:58.546-05:00Day 354 Sunday April 13, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well the ADVenture is still in San Gil, Colombia and will be here at least until after Easter. Then I will make an evaluation of the progress of the leg injury and if it is not getting better I will seek proper medical advice. OH...I can hear some of you now saying "Is he crazy?", but I do not go and see doctors or lawyers unless absolutely necessary. And after all this is my adventure. My friend Claudia Friday took me to a pharmacist that she knows and he prescribed a good anti-inflammatory and a much better pain cream for the leg.<br />
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One Wednesday I made a day trip through country roads from San Gil to Villanueva and returned on paved roads via Barichara to San Gil.<br />
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Photos in and around Villanueva.<br />
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Card game at the pool hall.<br />
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I had to have a photo of this man wearing an Alabama cap.<br />
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This is a photo of San Gil returning on the Barichara highway.<br />
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A few photos taken outside of Hotel Abril around 5:00 pm one afternoon this week.<br />
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If she would just smile....<br />
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Hotel Abril, from the street, where I am staying in San Gil.<br />
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The school just down the street is letting out.<br />
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These photos are from in and around Centro San Gil yesterday.<br />
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This evening I will catch a shuttle and go to Bucaramanga for a day or two. More will be revealed... </div>
Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-37616306520677988962014-04-07T16:13:00.000-05:002014-04-07T16:13:04.403-05:00Day 348 Monday April 7, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The ADVenture is still in San Gil where I will stay for a while longer. I really like it here...the town, but most of all the people. I have been told by many fellow travelers that the Colombian women are among the worlds most beautiful...I have not been disappointed. My experience has been that Colombians are the most polite, friendly and loving people the ADVenture has yet met. Yet put these same people behind the wheel of an auto or on a moto and they become some of the most aggressive I have encountered.<br />
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The injured leg has finally made the progress I have been hoping for. I have now had two days of little swelling and pain...I think it has turned the corner. Claudia suggested that I return to icing the leg everyday and it has made a dramatic difference. I am now able to walk and stand for hours with little discomfort.<br />
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Yesterday Claudia and I rode to Parque National del Chicamocha about 50km north of San Gil where we spent the afternoon. Chicamocha National Park, also known as Panachi, is a Colombian national level park along the Chicamocha Canyon (Cañón del Chicamocha) located 50 km from the city of Bucaramanga, Santander. The site is a tourist attraction due to it's spectacular landscape and the variety of outdoor activities that it offers such as paragliding, spelunking, bushwalking, camping, fishing, kayaking, rafting, mountain climbing, etc. The park is located on the highway between Bucaramanga and San Gil.<br />
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After inspecting the bike a few days ago I discovered one of the pannier brackets was broken...probably when we went down in Cabo del Vela.<br />
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Out for lunch at San Gil's city park on the Rio Fase.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-15377454564010615402014-03-29T16:21:00.000-05:002014-03-29T16:21:18.790-05:00Day 334 Saturday March 29, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The ADVenture is now in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Gil">San Gil</a>, Colombia. I departed San Juan del Cesar last Tuesday and rode to Curumani where I stayed for one night. That was my first day of ride since the leg injury. The ride went well and the leg did not give me any problems. My riding boots provide excellent protection and support for the foot and ankle. That said the ankle is still quite swollen and requires daily rehabilitation. From Curumani I rode to San Gil the next day.<br />
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It was near 6PM before I found a suitable hotel in San Gil. After unpacking I walked to the grocery store for some supplies. On my way back to the hotel I was looking for some ice to put on the ankle and met a man that spoke a little english, his name is Norberto. Norberto insisted that I go with him to get the ice. Norberto and I see each other everyday and he has introduced me to his friends. So now I have a small network of acquaintances here in San Gil.<br />
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This is a photo of Noberto and Claudia.<br />
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It rained the last day I was in San Juan del Cesar.<br />
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On the first day of travel I stopped in a shady spot in a small town. I introduced myself to these wonderful people and they made coffee. As often happens the motorcycle draws a crowd of children. Where the moto is concerned language is never a problem. Have I mentioned that I live the Colombian people?<br />
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While stopped here this little girl took my camera and acted as our official photographer, instructing the boys how to place themselves for her photos. She would not let me take her photo electing to do a selfie.<br />
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A few hours later while stopped for lunch at a roadside cafe.<br />
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That evening I stopped in Curumani and stayed at the Hotel Central. The next morning I met these two Colombian bikers. We talked for a hour. The man in the middle is Jorge Vasquez Serpa. We became FaceBook friends and he has since invited me to spend Holy Week with friends riding around Colombia.<br />
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I departed Curumani that morning and spent the day riding to San Gil where I met Norberto and Claudia. Claudia took a holiday the next day and a acted as my guide and interpreter in Barichara where these photos were taken.<br />
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This is Claudia using my cell and Google Translate to explain to me what I was seeing.Thanks Goodness for technology. <br />
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Last evening I went to the Centro Commercial in San Gil. It is a great place to view the city at night from.<br />
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I plan to stay in the area for a while as there are many day trips that can be made from here. More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-82259888323115218442014-03-23T10:57:00.000-05:002014-03-23T10:57:28.509-05:00Day 333 Sunday March 23, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is day nine of rehab and relaxation at Hostel El Prado. The foot and ankle are much better and I will travel again tomorrow. I will be headed to the San Gil/Villanueva area which is 578km, so it will likely take two days.<br />
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I have very much enjoyed my stay in San Juan. The hostel is located in a very nice neighborhood and I am on a speaking basis with many of the people. San Juan has a population of 24,000 and there are few buildings over one story high, so the town is spread out over a wide area. Therefore I have not seen much of San Juan due to my limited walking range. I have used Google Earth to investigate parts of San Juan and do not think I have miss much.<br />
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At the plaza is the raffle board. I did not play...but I was allowed to spin the wheels.<br />
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On the left is Edward. I met Edward on the second day in San Juan when he escorted Susan and Scott Nelson to Hostel El Prado where I was staying. They knew that I was staying somewhere in town, but did not know where. Edward met them on the highway and brought them to the hostel. Susan and Scott are from Oregon and they are among the ADVMoto travelers that sailed from Panama to Colombia on the Stahlratte. The Nelsons are traveling with a Labradoodle named Bentley. They both ride KTM 640 that are very well rigged out with a dog pen on Scott's bike.<br />
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These are the raffle wheels...they are started spinning and then someone throws a single dart into each wheel and the three numbers win the raffle.<br />
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This photo is of some of my neighborhood amigos. They come by the hostel everyday and we look at the bike or just communicate.<br />
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This Edward and his son Carlos at their bicycle shop.<br />
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Afternoon fun with my amigos!<br />
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I spend much of my time here on the balcony, just outside of my room, people watching.<br />
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This is how gasoline is purchased in this part of Colombia. There is no excuse for running out of gas...the main streets of every town is lined with venders. At first I could not figure out why gas stations were closed and gas was sold on the streets, but now I figure this is bootleg gas from Venezuela. The oil companies are unable to compete with 25 cent a gallon gas smuggled across the border.<br />
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This is where I received my first street hair cut. The barber did a good job.<br />
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At the plaza the shoe cobblers are always hard at work.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-49108436832836264442014-03-17T09:43:00.002-05:002014-03-17T09:43:56.987-05:00Day 327 Monday March 15, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The Stahlratte arrived in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartagena,_Colombia#World_Heritage_site">Cartagena</a> Harbor at 9:00AM March 6th...right on schedule. All passengers and crew were transported to the dock and taxied to Colombian Immigration and processed into the country. The six of us with motorbikes were sent back to the boat to wait for a barge that arrived at 1:30PM to transport the bikes to the dock where we rode straight to Customs for processing. The Stahlratte had arranged for an agent to meet us there and the processing was done for all in about 1:30 minutes. By far the easiest of any country that I have visited so far.<br />
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After customs five of us went to Hostel Amber Cartagena where we stayed for several days and relaxed and touring Cartagena. We were staying about a 10 minute walk from the "Old Town" in Cartagena. I will say that Old Town is the most beautiful town I have yet visited. It is simply spectacular...well preserved, very clean and classy, with many wonderful restaurants, shops and entertainment. If you were to visit Colombia you would not want to miss Cartagena.<br />
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The Colombian people are very friendly and helpful. So far my experience is that very few people here speak English...so I am forced to resume learning Spanish again. In Central America I could always find someone that spoke English, but not here.<br />
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A concert in Old Town.<br />
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The Fortress<br />
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Cartagena boasts that have the largest market in South America. It is Big!<br />
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This was election night when it was announced that President Uriba was elected to a fourth term.<br />
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The parking lot at Hostel Amber.<br />
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I left Cartagena and my friends Sheldon and Ewa, David and Jeffery and resumed my solo Adventure. I went up the Caribbean coast to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Marta,_Colombia">Santa Marta</a>/Taganga for two nights. Taganga is a scuba diving center with some of the cheapest rates of anywhere to learn to scuba dive. It is a lazy fishing village that does not know just what has hit them.<br />
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After two nights in Taganga I went to Cebo del Vela. It is further up the Caribbean coast close to the Venezuelan border. Cebo del Vela is in a desert on the coast. It is inhabited by the Wayuu and you can stay with almost any local family, as I did. You'll be sleeping in a hammock or a much more comfortable chinchorros (locally make woolen hammock).<br />
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Cebo de la Vela isn't for everyone. Getting here by public transportation involves a bone-shaking ride in the back of a truck (probably a 4X4). The landscape is a brutal scrub desert with the beautiful blue Caribbean Sea bordering it.<br />
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I found Cebo a bit too rough for my taste and about 11AM I decided to move along.<br />
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Cebo de la Vela is located at the end of the cardinal's beak. This area on the map also boasts the largest flock of flamingos in the Americas, but I missed them. </div>
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There is only one way into and out of Cebo. From Uribia it is about 30km of good gravel road and 10km of desert sand and rock road. On my way back to Uribia the bike went down in a construction zone where I missed judged the firmness of the roads surface. When the bike went down my right leg was pinned under the right pannier. this is the first time that I was trapped under the bike, not a good feeling. The leg was in severe pain and I hoped it was not broken. Luckily a member of the construction crew was near and he lifted the bike off my leg. Upon standing I was immediately able to tell that the leg was not broken, but the foot and ankle were damaged. After getting myself back together I rode on for about five hours and stopped in the town of San Juan del Cesar where I found a room at Hostal El Pedro. After getting the bike unloaded I was finally able to take the boot off and inspect the foot. The foot was so swollen that it was tough getting it out of the boot. Afterwards I cleaned up and became accustomed to the fact that I would have to stay here while the leg healed enough for me to travel again.<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_juan_del_cesar">San Juan del Cesar</a> is a town of approximately 26,000 inhabitance and it is not used to seeing tourists. I have encountered no one who speaks Ingles.<br />
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At the hostel on the first night I hooked up with three men from Bogata who work for a company that is GPS mapping Colombia. We went to a local tienda and sat out front and talked for hours (they in Spanish, me in Ingles). One of the men, Peter, gave me a foot and leg massage that was greatly appreciated.<br />
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Being in San Juan is giving me an opportunity to be among the Colombian people in their setting. Colombia is different that Central America, I can not exactly articulate it yet, but I like it very much. The people are intensely proud of their country and want to know what I think of Colombia. I may well stay here for a week or longer.<br />
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Around 6PM last evening Susan and Scott Nelson from Oregon arrived at Hostel El Pedro. They were among the bikers who sailed on the Stahlratte from San Blas to Cartagena. I could not believe my eyes when I saw them stop in front of the hostel. We had a short visit and they went to get something to eat. We will visit later today.<br />
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More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-86206811742754873872014-03-08T16:23:00.000-06:002014-03-08T16:24:55.293-06:00Day 318 Saturday March 8, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
While in Panama I stayed at Panama House B&B in the central city where I met other motorcycle adventure riders. Panama House is a staging point for travelers to meet and ride together to the port on the San Blas Archipelago where the bikes were loaded on the Stahlratte for passage to Cartagena. There are no roads from southern Panama to northern Colombia. This missing link in the PanAm highway is called the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darien_gap">Darien Gap</a> and must be sailed around. The Darién Gap is a break in the Pan-American Highway consisting of a large swath of undeveloped swampland and forest within Panama's Darién Province in Central America and the northern portion of Colombia's Chocó Department in South America. It measures just over 160 km (99 mi) long and about 50 km (31 mi) wide.<br />
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On the morning of March 3rd we arrived and six bikes were loaded from a dock directly onto the Stahlratte and at about noon we departed the dock and sailed to some uninhabited islands where we stayed until the morning of the 5th when the anchor was hoisted and we set sail for Cartagena, Colombia. It took 28 hours to make the passage and about half of the passengers were seasick and slept for most of the voyage. Thankfully I was not one of them, but I was never able to find my sea legs and just getting around on the boat was a struggle.<br />
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We arrived in Cartagena Harbor at 9:00AM on the 6th and went directly to Colombian immigrants and were stamped into the country. Afterwards all the bikers were returned to the boat and at 1:30PM the bikes were offloaded onto a barge and transported to shore where we rode directly to customs and the bikes were cleared into Colombia. Afterwards five of us came to Hostel Amber, a short walk from the Old City, where are staying.<br />
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Leaving Panama House with Ewa Domagala, Sheldon Thomson and David Mobley.<br />
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Loading bikes onto the Stahlratte.<br />
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Entering Cartagena Harbor<br />
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Jeffery Polnaja relaxing on the Stahlratte. Jeffery is from Indonesia and started his mission in 2006 and Colombia is the 87th country his adventure has taken him too. He started <a href="http://rideforpeace.net/">Ride for Peace</a> and has been carrying a message of world peace around the world. He left us today at Hostel Amber to make a speaking engagement in Bogota, Colombia in a few days. I have been following Jeffery for a couple of years and had no idea we would travel together on the Stahlratte.<br />
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The Cartagena skyline<br />
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One of the San Blas Islands<br />
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Our cook out on an uninhabited island. Pictured are Sheldon Thomson (Australia), Ewa Domagala (Poland) and our Kaptain Ludwig (Germany).<br />
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I was surprised to see the US Coast Guard checking out boats this far from home.<br />
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Sunset under sail in the Caribbean Sea.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-5675517243259719432014-02-28T16:40:00.002-06:002014-02-28T16:45:23.631-06:00ay 310 Friday February 28, 2014 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since leaving Monteverde, Costa Rica I first went to Jaco for one night where I stayed at the Buddha House. Jaco is a very americanized type beach town. It really had little appeal for me. There were many international tourist there...it was very busy...a popular surfer destination with all the popular franchises. Next I rode about 80km to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quepos">Quepos</a> which is also on the Pacific coast. The Manuel Antonio N.P. is located there. When I arrived there I joined a tour of the park. The tour was very good but it is very hot here...I always searching for shade. The tour took two hours and we saw howler, spider, and white face monkeys, white tail deer, several poisonous snakes, one Jesus lizard, two three-toed sloth and several exotic frogs. After leaving the park I rode back into Quipos and found a hotel where I stayed for two nights.<br />
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Quepos is a fishing town that attracts many sport fishermen from all over the world. It boasts the most world record sailfish, tuna and mahimahi caught than any other single location in the world. Quepos offers fishing for numerous varieties of fish, especially Pacific Sailfish. Peak fishing season is from November to April for billfish.<br />
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I left Quepos riding down the coast thinking that I might make the Panamanian border, but after a wrong turn that added several hours to the days ride I decided to find a place to stay and tackle the border in the morning. I was stopped at a store along the PanAm highway drinking a bottle of water when another adventure rider pulled up. He introduced himself as Jason Grabel from Alaska and he is also riding to Ushuaia, Argentina. Jason said he was headed to a little village on the coast called Pavones Beach...a place another rider had told him about. I asked Jason "Do you want some company" and he said finish your water. We had two hours of daylight left when we took off. From where we were it was about 45 miles to Pavones Beach and Jason had a good map. Within 10 miles the road had turned to gravel, in another 10 miles it turned to dirt and rocks and I was down to 1st gear riding....praying we got there. When we arrived and found a place to stay I did not have a dry thread on my body.<br />
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The next morning I was surprised to see travelers from all over the world. Pavones Beach is a surfing mecca...no world class surfer has not surfed there. Two guys from Pavones Beach are world class surfers on the international circuit. This is not a tourist town...it is not on the "gringo trail"...it is difficult to get to and is quite remote. Pavones Beach is my kind of place, laid back and friendly. I had finally found the Costa Rica I was looking for. Life is Good!<br />
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This the kiddie pool.<br />
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Paradice!<br />
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The surf on Pavones Beach runs from left to right. Waves here can be ridden for long distances...a surfer can surf until he is out of sight down the beach.<br />
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Jason rented a board and gave it a whirl.<br />
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I am now in Panama, Panama where I will stay until the 2nd of March when I will leave to board the Stahlratte for Columbia. Panama is a very large beautiful westernized city...anything you need can be found here.<br />
More will be revealed...<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2273336250549399278.post-3121363754084435412014-02-20T13:33:00.001-06:002014-02-20T16:50:57.305-06:00Day 302 Thursday February 20, 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since leaving Isle de Ometepe the Adventure has entered Costa Rica. The first night in Costa Rica was spent in the Pacific beach town of Puntarenas. I had a room about a block from the beach. Puntarenas has an almost carnival atmosphere....it is very commercialized. It has many restaurants, bars, and much LOUD music. The next morning I headed for higher ground...like 4,000 ft. above sea level.<br />
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It was about three hour ride to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Elena,_Costa_Rica">Santa Elena</a> in the central part of the country. Keep in mind that Costa Rica is about the size of South Carolina in the USA. I came here to visit the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve which was established by Quakers that founded the town of Monteverde in 1951.<br />
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What is now considered Monteverde was founded by Quakers from the United States whose pacifist values led them to defy the American draft during the Korean War. The majority of the group hailed from Fairhope, Alabama, and it included people who were not Quakers but pacifists and conscientious objectors. The spokesman of the group was Hubert Mendenhall, a dairyman who had visited Costa Rica in 1949 after joining a farmer's tour. These Quakers and pacifists chose Monteverde for its cool climate, which would facilitate dairy farming, and due to Costa Rica's non-violent, army-free constitution. Mendenhall noted that the soil was fertile and the people were friendly as well. The Quakers stewarded and farmed a large tract of land, which they eventually set aside for conservation. This reserve, which was named the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve), has become a major tourist attraction.<br />
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In 1953 the group started a cheese factory that I toured yesterday. Some of my Fairhope friends may recognize some of the founders of the cheese factory. I believe all of the founders were from Fairhope.<br />
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This morning I went to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. The tour was guided by a local man named Juan Carlos. There were five in our group, two Americans, two Germans and one Canadian. The tour was for two and one half hours. Juan Carlos was very informative and I believe everyone enjoyed the tour very much. The reserve allows only 150 people into it each day. The majority come to see rare beautiful birds.<br />
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There are many varieties of hummingbirds including the ruby throated hummingbird that is common in the southern US.<br />
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This is the best picture I was able to get of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resplendent_Quetzal">Quetzal</a>...many of the people here today came just to see one of them.<br />
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On the left is Juan Carlos explaining another of the bird species that we had just seen.<br />
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This tree is one of the most interesting things I saw this morning. The original tree is no longer alive...it is long since gone. The center where the original tree was is hollow. Birds, perched in the original tree, dropped seeds of what was explained as the "stranglers"....I assume it is a type of vine. Over time the stranglers kill the original tree. We saw several examples of this at different stages.<br />
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The trees here are all soft wood...like balsa wood. The trees have no rings in them to mark the seasons....because there are no real seasons here.<br />
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Another example of stranglers taking over a tree.<br />
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Tourism is a growing sector in Monteverde's economy. Having grown from less than a hundred yearly visitors in 1975 to around 50,000 in the mid-1990s to 250,000 in recent years, much of the economy is becoming increasingly dependent on tourism. An increase in hotels, taxis, guides, and other tourist-geared services have appeared since the early 1990s. Two bilingual schools have been founded to provide the English essential for catering to Monteverde's many visitors.<br />
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Johnny Hubbardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01389325020711609052noreply@blogger.com0